Friday, August 10, 2007

Nice

I didn't really think I'd like Nice based on its reputation but in fact despite the huge numbers of tourists focused on the beach, it was still a lovely place, particularly the old town. That's the triangle of red roofs in the picture, which was taken from the hill overlooking Nice, which is like a King's Park in terms of relaxed public space.

Beyond the triangle is 'modern' Nice ie loads of the older terrace-style flats you see in every European city plus a recently remodelled strip where they've been installing a tram line for at least 3 years.

Here's the famous Riviera beach, pebbly and crowded. Plus when I went swimming (I couldn't go all that way and not take a swim), I got stung by a red jellyfish, which reminded me why I prefer pools.

Nice has a long history of attracting tourists, and at one time many Russians came to the area, which explains this early-20th century Russian cathedral. Though it looks big from the outside, the public space is just a tiny room inside, with an icon of St Nicolas which worshippers kiss and bow to - some more enthusiatically than others. I watched an old lady lay her forehead on the glass for minutes at the time and bow right down to touch the ground before it, then watched a younger man give it a peck and a little nod - well, whose prayers are going to get answered between those two? The glass was covered with smudges from people kissing it, it was really quite unhygienic.

The hills and mountains rise up only a short distance back from the coast, and there's lots of little French towns to go see, like St Paul's de Vence, just Vence, La Turbie (overlooking Monaco), Tourrette's, and Gordon, all of which have their little old towns still preserved and are pleasant places to wander around in. Pictured is Eze on the hill (as opposed to Eze by the sea at its feet). I was impressed that in between the over-developed sprawl, green open space has survived.

Along the coast, I skipped Monte Carlo and Cannes and visited Antibes, Villefranche and Menton. Menton in particular I enjoyed as the old town is still entirely residential, the shops being confined to the bottom of the hill. This means it's a quiet and shady place to take a stroll in. The Menton cemetary, where the English and Russian TB patients were buried (Nice and surrounds once being a supposed cure for consumption), is also worth visiting...and for those who are following the new Dr Who...

DON'T BLINK.

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